{"id":272123,"date":"2021-02-14T09:44:56","date_gmt":"2021-02-14T08:44:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/elatelierdevalena.com\/apuntes\/?p=272123"},"modified":"2021-02-14T09:44:56","modified_gmt":"2021-02-14T08:44:56","slug":"basic-knitting-stitches","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/elatelierdevalena.com\/apuntes\/en\/basic-knitting-stitches\/","title":{"rendered":"BASIC STITCHES"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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In this new post in our blog we are going to describe some basic knitting stitches and techniques, and explain why they are used.<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Edges<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

These are the stitches at each edge of the work (first and last). It is recommendable to include them even when not indicated in the explanation. When working some stitch types they are essential.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When we incorporate these stitches, the edges of our work will have a different appearance. Below are the three most widely used ways of working edge stitches:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chain edge<\/strong>: In every row, regardless of how the stitch is to be worked, slip the first stitch and work the last stitch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Slipped garter edge<\/strong>: In every row, slip the first stitch knitwise and knit the last stitch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Double garter edge<\/strong>: In every row, slip the first stitch knitwise through back loop, knit the second stitch and knit the last two stitches of the row.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

W<\/strong>ork The Stitches As Presented<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

All the stitches that are presented knitwise are knitted, those presented purlwise are purled.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Slip Stitch<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Pass 1 stitch from the left needle to the right needle without working.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tubular Cast On<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

This method of casting on provides elasticity to the lower edge of the garment. It is necessary when the first rows of the garment are worked in rib.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Using yarn in a different colour, cast on half the necessary number of stitches. With the yarn to be used for the garment, work 1 row of *k1, YO*.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the next row, knit the YOs and slip purlwise, with the yarn in front of the work as though to purl, the stitches knitted in the previous row. Then work 2 or 3 rows in tubular stitch and go on to the next stitch used in the work. Finally, remove the yarn used to cast on the stitches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tubular Stitch<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

This stitch is worked in the same way as SINGLE RIB, with the variation that the purl stitches are slipped, taking the yarn in front of the work as though to purl.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

SINGLE RIB<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

1st<\/sup> row: *K1, P1*. In the following rows, work the stitches as presented.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Double rib<\/strong>: *k2, p2*. In the following rows, work the stitches as presented.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The same procedure is used in triple rib, etc…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Roy<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Today we bring you two models of The Atelier de Valena: Roy<\/a> and Hanne<\/a>. In both the Tubular Cast On, the Tubular Stitch and the Single Rib have been used for the beginning of the work. A thinner needle should be used to knit the elastic stitches of the garment (also in the neck and cuffs) and then change to the higher needle number to continue knitting the garment.
We hope you have enjoyed this topic. See you soon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Hanne<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We hope you have enjoyed this topic. See you soon!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El Atelier de Valena<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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In this new post in our blog we are going to describe some basic knitting stitches and techniques, and explain why they are used. Edges These are the stitches at each edge of the work (first and last). It is recommendable to include them even when not indicated in the explanation. When working some stitch […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":272081,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"\n

En este post vamos a describir alguno de las t\u00e9cnicas y puntos b\u00e1sicos y el porqu\u00e9 de su uso.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

ORILLOS<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Son los puntos extremos de cada vuelta de la labor (primero y \u00faltimo). Es recomendable incluirlos aunque no se indique en la explicaci\u00f3n y en la realizaci\u00f3n de algunos puntos son imprescindibles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Seg\u00fan trabajemos estos puntos, los bordes de la labor tendr\u00e1n distintas terminaciones. A continuaci\u00f3n mencionamos las tres formas mas habituales de trabajar los puntos de orillo:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cadeneta: En todas las vueltas, independientemente de c\u00f3mo haya que trabajar el punto, deslizar el primer punto y tejer el \u00faltimo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Perlado: En todas las vueltas, deslizar el primer punto del derecho y tejer el \u00faltimo punto del derecho.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

TEJER LOS PUNTOS COMO SE PRESENTAN<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cuando las instrucciones del patr\u00f3n indica TEJER LOS PUNTOS COMO SE PRESENTAN quiere decir que todos los puntos que se presentan del derecho se tejen del derecho, los que se presentan del rev\u00e9s se tejen del rev\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

MONTAJE DOBLE<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Este tipo de montaje de puntos permite que los bordes de la prenda sean el\u00e1sticos. Es imprescindible cuando a continuaci\u00f3n se va a tejer PUNTO EL\u00c1STICO.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Con una hebra de distinto color montar la mitad de los puntos necesarios. Con la hebra de la labor, tejer 1 vuelta de *1p. derecho, hebra*.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despu\u00e9s, en la vuelta siguiente, tejer del derecho las hebras y deslizar del rev\u00e9s, con la hebra por delante de la labor, los puntos tejidos de la vuelta precedente. Tejer a continuaci\u00f3n 2 \u00f3 3 vueltas en punto tubular y pasar al siguiente punto de la labor. Al final de la misma, quitar la hebra con la que se montaron los puntos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

PUNTO TUBULAR<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Este punto se teje de igual forma que el PUNTO EL\u00c1STICO 1\/1, con la variante de que los puntos del rev\u00e9s se deslizan sin tejer, llevando la hebra por delante de la labor. Este punto se utiliza para conseguir que los bordes de la prenda sean el\u00e1sticos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

PUNTO EL\u00c1STICO 1\/1<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

1\u00aav.: *1p. derecho, 1p. rev\u00e9s*. En las vueltas siguientes, tejer los puntos como se presentan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Punto el\u00e1stico 2\/2: *2p. derecho, 2p. rev\u00e9s*. En las vueltas siguientes, tejer los puntos como se presenten. Proceder de igual forma en los puntos el\u00e1sticos 3\/3, etc...<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A continuaci\u00f3n vamos a monstrar dos modelos de El Atelier de Valena: Roy<\/a> y Hanne<\/a>. En ambos se ha utilizado la t\u00e9cnica de montaje doble, el punto tubular y el punto el\u00e1stico 1\/1 para el comienzo de la labor. Por \u00faltimo, comentar que se debe utilizar una aguja de menor grosor para tejer los puntos el\u00e1sticos de la prenda (tambien en cuello y pu\u00f1os) y luego cambiar al n\u00famero superior de aguja para continuar tejiendo la prenda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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